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Background On August 30, 2011 Freya Hoffmeister began her circumnavigation of South America from the Quilmes Yachtclub in Buenos Aires. Her plan is to paddle south down the coast, rounding the Cape south of Tierra del Fuego, ending the first leg of her 8,000 kilometres (5,000 mi) trip in Valparaíso, the main harbor just off Santiago de Chile eight months later. She will return home for four months, resuming the trip in September 2012, paddling north past Peru and Ecuador, cross the equator and pass Colombia and paddle through the Panama Canal then south past Venezuela, ending the second 8,000 km leg in Georgetown, Guyana. Another break, then the third 8,000 km leg starts in September 2013, taking her pastSuriname, Brazil and Uruguay returning to Buenos Aires in time to celebrate her 50th birthday on May 10, 2014. |
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December 28, 2011 It is really now "Cape Horn" weather - I've never experienced such storm and water in my life. The wind is up to 50 knots. But I must admit I'd rather have seen it from the safe cliff top of the Cape Horn Navy station than from this marginal beach... At least I'm not worried that the water is reaching my tent. I'm rather worried that a rock or two would be rolling from the cliffs above and hit my tent or boat...no, this won't happen to me. I forgot to write I saw yesterday my two lucky dolphins during the day on the calm water. I mistook the sign I'd be able to reach Isla Hornos yesterday. But it was just a sign I simply survived my bad decision making with moderate damage. Yes, it was the worst decision making mistake on my kayaking life. I stepped into the "Cape Horn" trap out of the picture album.I must have been lulled by the dead calm weather all day, and the continuous shelter of the islands. |
 I probably played it a bit down on this morning's update, not to worry any one. But I rather be honest to myself and to advise other paddlers who may like to try the same.Yes, I can keep my nerves in such situations for a long while. Yes, I know I can paddle hard and long and in huge seas. But the wind is something which shows you your limits at some point. I should have turned around much earlier. I knew how fast the wind comes up here, and how strong it would be soon. But this is Freya, going head first and fight it hard. But I almost lost the fight. I learned my lesson. I assume I was eventually paddling yesterday in 30-40 knots, with the accordingly constantly rising sea state. Nothing any more with the calm shelter of the islands. *This* eventually became BIG, and did grow today to a sea I have never seen in my life, I think...this is Cape Horn weather out of the picture album! |
| First (horrible) self portrait across Cape Horn, not really relaxed… |
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My landing spot yesterday, really a marginal way to land through a thick slippery kelp bed with big boulders behind it, is trashed now every 5 sec with a breaker high as a house. There was quite some surf on it already yesterday as well, though that was the only corner with a marginal shelter behind a 20 m single rock. I probably didn't hurt myself because of the slippery kelp sliding me and my kayak on the next bigger wave further up. And although I got a bit wet inside my dry suit, I think there is no mayor hole in it, rather the old worn out spot not sealed yet. I couldn't dry and check it yet. I managed somehow to put on my helmet and PFD in time. Good. Glad the kelp and huge boulders are breaking the surf well now and the water really doesn't come up to my tent, besides lots of spray. There won't be any other choice of a tent site here. |
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But I will have to drag or carry my kayak for launching one day to the tiny gravel beach in the far corner of this whole marginal beach stretch. Launching from there through the rocks on reasonable conditions will be all right, rather than landing there in that massive surf yesterday, not seeing the rocks. In hindsight, I picked the right spot for my attempted crash landing. And I was glad I didn't hurt myself besides a few bruise on my legs...I'm just a lucky girl. I do not want to imagine what I'd have done, if I'd not dared to land and have left out this marginal landing spot... If I really would have made it through the breakers of the line of huge rocks at the end of this island, if I then wouldn't have been able to get or to stay in the lee of the island and would simply have gotten blown out to the open sea...see you, Antarctica! My tent held up so far, but I was awake since 3 am, and had walked out probably 10 times already to check the tent and to change rock combinations to hold the guy lines. One line ripped already on a sharp rock, but I could easy fix it with a knot. Eventually, after I was lying probably all day like a beetle on the back, stretching out all four to support the tent walls, I got the idea to take my whole half of my broken paddle, which had a perfect length, to support the tent in the middle. Then I remembered I had a set of solid spare kevlar steering lines in my repair kit, and knotted them to each existing guy line. I spread out the line in a different angle, and slung it around a solid rock somehow. So double guy lines on each corner - this is holding now and won't rip for a while! And I can stretch out in the tent again and may even get some sleep...  I tried to secure the tent flaps with heavy rocks, but the fabric is too slippery to hold it down, and it only ripped holes on the bottom on the flaps. But although the tent is making still a lot of noise, I'm secure this will hold now. Not sure how to cook tonight inside my tent, as it is probably still blowing 20 knots inside here :-) No way of thinking of starting the repair on my kayak yet. The air is full of sea spray from the breakers, I may have to wait until tomorrow after noon where it is not blowing 40-50 knots like today, with lots of rain, but "only" 20-30 knots or even less. I hope to get the repair done rather with my very fast (4 min) and hot hardening two components epoxy steel resin than with the real liquid resin which will take a day to get hard. I fortunately could shop two sets of medium size tubes in Rio Grande. Pic: Cape Horn Navy officer Ivan Cadiz with Paula, Daniela and little Ivan This may hold up the 11 km to Isla Hornos one day, where I hope to get shelter for my kayak to cover the whole repair with one or two layers of fiber glass mat and liquid resin. The damage could have been much worse, like the boat may have crashed on a rock fully , but this will still be a floating kayak I can further on use. No evacuation necessary... I have enough food and water for two weeks. But I hope to get out here to Isla Hornos latest Sunday, maybe Friday night. Maybe not. Happy New Year! :-)  |
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December 29, 2011 I survived the night with still up to 50 knots wind in a horrible noisy flattering tent, but due to my added guy lines yesterday I could actually relax, and got some sleep. This morning I could improve again the rocks on my tent flaps on the ground, and it flattered a tad bit less. But it holds up well, besides a few smaller holes the rocks were doing on the bottom flaps. Then I called my boyfriend Peter in Denmark via sat phone, as most mornings. I had to learn the horrible news about Alejandro's death. I wrote a separate blog entry. I was crying on writing the entry. Bye, bye, Ale, my friend! The day went on with rain and wind, and I had to think about my potential weather windows to get out of here. I calculated my food, and with some precaution I set myself on half breakfast ration this morning. But I have still food for12-14 or more days, I think. My tiny fresh water stream tasted well, but I have still about 9 liters of water myself. No worries so far. Karel texted me a weather opening today between 15-18 pm, and he was right. It calmed down with almost no wind (at least not on my beach...), and the seas smoothed out by the hour. It was low tide in the afternoon, and my tiny gravel beach showed a oit of a tame side. It is only around 2 m tidal level here, but it makes the difference on this shallow corner. There were still some breakers rolling on it, but it had enough good lulls to launch safely, if I'd have tried around 4 pm. I stood there and watched the sea for a long while. On high tide, there won't be a launch or landing possible. When I arrived Wednesday night, it was high tide with horrible rolling breakers, and the breakers crashed on the many huge rocks on top of the gravel beach. Good to have seen the possibility to launch on low tide and reasonable seas, and I can relax a bit. It is amazing how fast the sea calms down here - but it went up in the same speed...my kelp landing was the only option at that time, though decorated with breakers, too.. But this first weather window was for repairing my kayak! I dragged my boat already this morning in a small no rain window under the tiny rock overhang, where the seam split hopefully dried a bit out. There was no rain for at least two hours between 3 and 5 pm, and I managed to repair the whole kayak with my fast cure 2 components epoxy steel resin. I even used only 1/4 of my reserves. This stuff is really perfect for fast beach repairs in humidity. I'm hoping to get more of that in Ushuaia. I think the seam split will hold with this stuff in multiple layers, though the fabric was probably not really dry under the application. The rest were only soaking cracks which should be all right now, too.  My other option, the real liquid epoxy resin with the fiberglass cloth, would have dried too long, I think. I'd have some "Water Weld" kneading 2 components stick as well, sticking even under water, but I think it won't be strong enough to hold the seam together. This looks good now, and I'm sure it will hold, once fully dry the next day.It is raining now again, and the visibility disappeared. I took earlier a few yearning looks over to Isla Hornos, and could make out the Navy station well. If some one would have waved over at me, I would have seen it... I made a test call via VHF on channel 16 to Cape Horn Navy station this early morning 9 am, but got no answer. Around 3 pm, I tried again, and got a response from the Cape Horn Navy station, but could barely understand what he was saying. I think I was supposed to go on channel 14, as after the initial contact on channel 16 you should not make longer conversations on that emergency channel, but after switching to channel 14 I couldn't get them any more. I hope they understood this was only a test contact call, and that I was not on my way yet. I rather keep the VHF radio and it's batteries for a "mayday" message, which I will hopefully not have to send out any time in my kayaking life. I still have two spare sat phone batteries, and am on the last quarter of my first one now, with a few calls, and not only texting. They will last for a while. The wind will probably breeze up again now as fore casted, I think. I may have to spend Friday and Saturday still here. Saturday night it may calm down again. Maybe I can go already. But I'm still hoping to get latest out here Sunday early morning. If not - I have resources for a while...and patience now, reading my e-book. I won't risk and push anything. If the weather is right, there is no problem in these waters. But it changes so fast… |
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January 1, 2012 After I wrote my update yesterday, the knot in my stomach didn't really decrease yet by watching the still crashing surf from about four different spots of my asylum beach. It surely decreased, and the open water looked all right , but it was not enough to safely launch from any corner. - I had basically four choices to launch: The main "beach" with about 20-30 cm diameter rocks, in the furthest deepest corner, had the biggest surf rolling on it. This was the place where I already carried my kayak the day before, just in case I may stumble and fall and break it again...and to have it a bit easier on the launching day. It was decorated with huge boulders, and had just one narrow straight line to go out. But the few lulls were not safe enough to make it that far out where the still 2-3 m breakers started to roll and crash. If one would have caught me, I'd be crashed as well. It did look different that early Thursday... - The second choices would be on the very last corner, in a tiny lee of some rocks, where the surf was not rolling in so high. But it was still high enough, to not be safe. Sometimes the surf built on that corner, sometimes not. This corner was not possible to calculate in any way - too dangerous as well. And I'd had to carry my kayak even further over huge boulders and around two rock nose walls.  - The third choice I discovered last night - the southern, very first end of the "beach", where I really had to climb over huge rocky boulder and around rock walls even more. An enormous balance act with my kayak, and an even longer way. This beach had 20-30 cm boulders as well, and I first thought it was a bit sheltered from the west south west rolling surf. But getting closer, the breakers crashing on it were not much different to my first choice. By the way, I spent the European "New Year's Eve" just there around our 8 pm, just reconnoitering...- The last and fourth choice was actually yesterday night after a lot of watching and comparing the different spots my favorite. It was a bit south of my campsite, and had about a meter high slippery boulders on low tide, with a tiny belt of kelp, being a tad bit sheltered behind a huge offshore rock. There was still surf rolling even on that corner, but it seemed to be a bit broken, lower and having more lulls. But yesterday, when a big wave came, it still would wash so high I could not hold my kayak in a reasonable distance position. Still a no go that night, but it gave me the most hope to one day get out of here...I was so convinced to take that spot, that I already yesterday carried one bag of wet gear and paddles away from my kayak and back to my tent...but not fully sure yet, I left the kayak on the first possible launching spot. Spending almost all evening wandering from one of those corners to the next, watching, I almost forgot to call my boyfriend at 8 pm - Danish New Year...when I called him to say I won't launch this night, I could barely understand him from all the firework noise in the background...and I was close to tears, remembering our last New Year's even together. But when I decided this night would still be a no go, though the seas and wind were all right, I again had to force myself to eat, not to lose too much energy, and to sleep a bit. I read my e-book, until I fell asleep around 9 pm for about an hour, waking at 10.30 pm again to listen to the waves. They sounded less! By now, I could judge their hight by just the sound... I stuck my head out of my tent, and saw I was right - catching new hope for tomorrow early morning. Somehow the knot in my stomach, tied tight since Tuesday night, loosened up a bit, knowing I'd make it out tomorrow morning. I now knew the torture would be over soon...and yes, the stay on this beach on this island, though it saved my life on Tuesday night, was a horrible torture! - First, I didn't know when I'd be able to launch, after I had to let go that lovely Thursday due to repairing my kayak in low to no wind and rain. I had to household with my resources - food, sat phone batteries, even toilet paper...but the latter was the least worry. I fortunately found a bit larger stream down the beach to refill my water bags, so water was not an issue. Plus I could catch rainwater any time...  - Second, the shocking news of the death of Alejandro on a similar trip weighting heavily on my mind...I had only a few minutes to talk to my boyfriend on the sat phone, having to mourn all the time by myself. And it could have easily caught me as well...-Third, my kayak, my tent or myself could be hit by a falling rock, or even worse, by a landslide at any time on any spot on this beach. - Fourth, the constant noise of the crashing, up to 4-5 meter high surf on the coast, was mentally extremely tough, day and night. Knowing one day it had to go down, or no one could get me off here. Even a helicopter may have been in danger, the beach was too narrow, and the prop wash may have blown down rocks or a landslide. - Fifth, the constant wind ripping on my tent - would it hold up? Thank goodness to a rock solid Hilleberg Staika tent...The worst day was obviously Wednesday, with wind speeds up to 100 knots - yes, you read it right - I checked on the Navy logbook today...and my tent was really marginally sheltered behind a big boulder. Yes, the legendary infamous Cape Horn wind speeds - I was writing on my update when I eventually had to turn around that Tuesday, 1.1 km short to reach Isla Hornos, I estimated I probably paddled in 30-40 knots - the logbook of the navy said, it was 60 knots at 6 pm, gusting to 80 knots...and I landed at 8.30 pm...and I stayed upright, and landed somehow somewhere...should I be proud I made it through those winds and accordingly rising huge sea states? No, I was rather ashamed I made the mistake to get into it...but yes, I must be somehow eventually after all those km some kind of skillful paddler...and have guardian angels. But I never, never want that experience again...and don't wish any one to get ever into it. These high numbers for the wind speed are really shocking...for tonight, the Navy officer said, they expect 130 knots...thank goodness I'm safe and sound. I woke about every hour last night, checking the time and listening to the surf...at first light, I would be ready to go! I rose at 3.20 am, my gear was mostly packed already. I stumbled with the first two heavy gear bags to my kayak, as the surf on the first possible launching spot seemed to be all right from the distance. Arriving there, I went close to the water's edge, and had to admit to myself this was still not possible to launch from here this morning...disappointing...so loading the two gear bags on my shoulders again, and stumbling back to my tent. I then walked to the other direction, to launching choice number four, my last night's favorite, and this was the spot for this morning! Not 100% safe, but maybe 80%, safe enough for to risk it. So walking to the kayak, loading it on my shoulders, carefully stepping from boulder to boulder with my sandals, already sweating in my dry suit...but I made the estimated 200 m without falling and crashing my kayak or myself. Good. I will just get some bruises again on my shoulder and hip...but thank goodness the epic 18x expedition kayak is still a light weight one, compared to some other kayaks... The next walk was taking the first two gear bags to the new launching spot, more sweating and balancing...  Then it was time to take my trustworthy refugee, my tent, down. Means, I had to unload about 60 heavy boulders from the flaps and pegs...and to stuff the soaking wet tent into it's bag. But then it was the last walk with the last two gear bags! My kayak was fully empty, so it were four gear bags this time...and though I had few food left and kept just a little water, it was still heavy...and I was quite exhausted from few sleep, few eating, strained nerves...I loaded my kayak on big boulders, high enough to not get caught by the highest breaker. But fortunately they break fast on those meter sized rocks with a bit of kelp upfront. The new worry was to slide the eventually heavy loaded boat over the big boulders to the water's edge, and to get it afloat, without breaking the bottom or getting crashed by a high washing wave. Luckily, the rocks were very slippery on low tide, good for my kayak, but bad for my feet and legs.. But I was lucky, timed it right, slid the kayak in a reasonable flat line over the tip of the rocks, got just a tiny wash into the cockpit, jumped on and in, and paddled away, out of the danger zone...I was OUT! In one piece, myself and my kayak... Now 11 km across to Isla Hornos - the water was almost calm, just a swell of 2 m running. The wind was this morning about 18-20 knots north west, and it was supposed to stay like that at least until noon...but who knows??? I paddled as fast as I could, but noticed, I was quite worn...two hours, that was all I needed...and I was on the water at 5 am. I could have headed to Isla Hershel only, in the gap between the island's shelter, but I decided the weather window was safe enough this time... Plus I saw a huge cruise boat coming just out of this gap, heading to unload their passengers it Isla Hornos. Plus I saw a sailboat anchoring in the landing bay of Isla Hornos...would they have sent out a zodiac, just in case???  But the water and wind stayed like it was on launching, and I took two endless long hours to paddle the 11 km across.Though I was aiming probably 10-15 degrees against the wind off course, I lost 10 degrees on my bearing due to the north west wind...the pictures of Tuesday came back into my mind, but I felt this chance was safe enough.I arrived just the same time as the huge cruise boat was spitting out about 5 or 6 zodiacs, ferrying back and forth about 130 cruise boat passengers, all dressed in bright orange life jackets, to the landing. The sailboat was the big Russian "Scorpius" I met already in Puerto Williams.They were still all fast asleep, though I called them on the radio on passing it...too much vodka on New Year's eve, eh?? They plan to circumnavigate Antarctica, taking two months, then head up through Fjordland...maybe see you again in Valparaiso? Cape Horn Navy officer Ivan, his wife Paula, son Ivan, daughter Daniela and puppy dig Wuff greeted me on my arrival. I squeezed myself onto the tiny jetty just in the gap after the first zodiac, quickly unloaded, and moved my boat on to a higher ledge of the wooden staircase jetty with the help of Ivan and three zodiac captains. More zodiacs, each loaded with about 15 passengers, were queuing up... I was sitting there about half an hour beside my kayak, hiding the writing on it actually a bit, still in my dry suit, and just watched the stream of orange ants disembark, climbing the staircase, without taking (fortunately) much notice of me. I was not in the mood to play the camera hero for a shit load of tourists, who paddles around South America, and finally made it to Cape Horn... I was actually sitting there, with mixed emotions, close to tears again, being eventually safe, soon dry and warm, thinking of my friend Alejandro and his destiny, and thanking god for I eventually made it here in one piece. I texted briefly to my website I arrived, and reached my boyfriend, son and mother on the sat phone to wish them a happy New Year from Cape Horn... As soon as all tourists were done climbing up stairs, I took my gear bags, and Ivan escorted me to their beautiful, new house, built around the old Cape Horn light house. The hot shower felt as good as never, and I even could get all my clothes washed! After Paula was done selling the tourists their Cape Horn souvenirs, she prepared a great breakfast, ad I was digging in heavily...I did step on the bath room scale after my shower - 65 kg... my usual home weight (too heavy!!!) is 77-79 kg... But this was not all...lunch was a festive New Year's lunch, with a choice of food I haven't seen for months...even a fresh crab meat salad as an entrée...when I was eating like a horse, I think I was excused...thanks a lot to Paula! Before lunch, the crew of the Scorpius came up, and good that I already bought some Cape Horn souvenir clothing, like a fleece jacket, scarf and hat...what the 130 previous tourists haven't shopped yet, the Russian crew bought... :-) Life is good again, I'm staying in a lovely friendly European looking, x-mas decorated house with a very nice Navy family, am well fed close to bursting, and the fore cast for Tuesday still looks good...but yes, things change fast here, and sometimes too early...the weather window did close again at 11.30 am here... If Tuesday stays nice enough to paddle around Isla Hornos, I will do. So far, it says 20-17 knots west going down to almost nothing at night. I will make it to Caleta Middle on Isla Middle, stay there probably one day, and Thursday afternoon, latest Saturday, I may cross over the 30 km to Isla Navarino into the safety of Fjordland again. But again, the weather may change… |
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Freyas rounding of Cap Horn
Publicerad: 2010.01.01
Uppdaterad: 2013.03.08
Here an excerpt from Freyas blog updates during the critical days around new years 2011/2012 when she rounded Cap Horn in what must be one of the greatest adventures and achievements of any sea kayaker.
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Boblbee becomes Point 65 Sweden!
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Nigel Foster opens US online kayak store
Legendary kayaker Nigel Foster opens an online kayak store offering Point 65's full range of modular kayaks and the accessories you need. Nigel can ship anywhere in the US (lower 48 states) and offers same/next day shipping and competitive prices.
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Sail & Surf appointed Austrian distributor for Point65!
Great news! SAIL & SURF has been appointed the Point 65 distributor for Austria. Come spring 2014 Sail & Surf will hold significant inventory of our modular kayaks. So Austrian dealers will now have product easily available.
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Boblbee has become a part of
Point 65 Sweden and the
awesome product line has
been re-launched under the
Point 65 Sweden brand.
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packs.point65.com
Point 65 Sweden and the
awesome product line has
been re-launched under the
Point 65 Sweden brand.
Check out Point 65 Packs!
packs.point65.com
